In Val di Fassa it is possible to climb on cliffs, on accessible and short walls, without long descents, with more comfort and less equipment. Because this is what cliffs are: large boulders or small rock walls that emerge from the ground, which rise for twenty/thirty meters and then stop. Equipped walls that often emerge even at low altitudes, easily reachable from the car parks in the village, with a few minutes’ walk.
Climbing at a crag means tackling all levels of sport climbing difficulty, but doing so without having to plan the ascent for a long time. It means practicing this wonderful and constantly growing sport even within a couple of hours, and then going home and taking a shower. Are you a lover of splendid mountains and would you like some advice for climbing in agility in a wonderful context?
Here is our top 5 crags in Val di Fassa (click on the route to find out more) that can be easily reached in a short time from our structure
The Città dei Sassi, a splendid series of cliffs close to the start of the ski lifts which lead to the Sassolungo from the slopes of Passo Sella, going up from Canazei. After parking at the foot of the cable car, take the path that branches off to the right from the parking lot. In a few minutes you will come across this series of dolomite rock formations, which are actually gigantic boulders that have detached from the Sassolungo. A paradise for climbers, a place much loved by local enthusiasts and tourists, also convenient from Val Gardena just beyond the Sella. There are 157 single-pitch routes from grade 3 to 7c+, in a wonderful environment and with excellent opportunities to get to know other climbers. One of the largest and most beautiful natural gyms in Italy.
DISTANCE from our B&B Appartamenti Cèsa Planber Mountain View: about 12 km
Climbing on a crag often means difficulties accessible to all, given that it is in this context that it is recommended to make one’s debut. Getting to know the rock without having to prepare for alpine climbing, tackling the first difficulties with the terrain at your feet, without having to deal with the alpine environment and the dizzying heights of long routes. A good crag for beginners is the one of Alba di Canazei. Just outside the village, going up towards the Marmolada, there is this stone of dark rock, two beautiful blocks of volcanic rock. Very little greasy, excellent round holds, vertical slopes and difficulties between 4 and 6, to approach even the first technical pitfalls. The gym is right up the street, with plenty of parking nearby.
DISTANCE from our B&B Appartamenti Cèsa Planber Mountain View: about 1.5 km
Still in the vicinity of Canazei, once again going up along the state road to the Sella. These perfectly equipped white limestone cliffs are located near the Schiavaneis and Monti Pallidi refuges. Park near the refuges and go up the paved road towards the Sella, then take the path that starts from the barrier. Cross the creek up to the cliffs, past the creek. A beautiful lawn and white limestone, for four parallel sectors. The Centrale, with several pitches of very high difficulty, between 7 and 8, only for the very expert. The No Big Area, small wall to the right of the other three, with technically not too difficult routes, but overhanging, between 5c and 6c+. Eleven routes on Sasso Gabriel, decidedly technical, with some approachable even by not too experts (second), from 6a up to 7a+. Finally the Placca, the most varied stone, with three pitches of 5b/5c, a couple of 6c/6b, three beautiful routes of very demanding 7s, and even an 8a. An area truly for all tastes.
DISTANCE from our B&B Appartamenti Cèsa Planber Mountain View: about 8 km
Two beautiful structures one above the other, in a beautiful surrounding, in the middle of the gully above Moena. Both crags face south and you can climb every month except the truly winter ones, when the snow arrives. About twenty routes of medium-high difficulty, ranging from 6a/b up to 7b. People come to the Ronchi crag to resume training after a break, test their skills or attempt a real leap in quality. Pretty short routes. Some very short, just seven meters long but with very athletic moves, almost boulder-like. Excellent nailing in a clean limestone. It can be reached by the road that goes from Moena to the San Pellegrino pass, up to Ronchi. You park and then take the road with no access that goes back towards Moena. After 300 meters on the right, a path soon leads to the gully. The cliffs are on the left side.
DISTANCE from our B&B Appartamenti Cèsa Planber Mountain View: about 14 km
If you are a professional looking for a good series of challenges, the crag for you in Val di Fassa is that of Valle San Nicolò. Go up the small valley above Pozza di Fassa. Before the valley opens into the large meadow that many love and consider one of the most beautiful places in the valley, a path starts on the left, which leads directly to the Kendo Rock. There are other clearly visible crags in the surrounding area. In total there are about thirty routes in a limestone with notches and holes. All challenging. We hear news of the opening of some routes for beginners, but we don’t trust them too much. As far as we know, in fact, in Val San Nicolò it is better to avoid bringing beginners. Not a route below 7a (except for the central one on Sasso Fra Martino), several overhanging pitches, and many routes of 8, up to 8b. For the experts and athletes of the discipline, there are at least thirty really tough routes in this splendid valley.
DISTANCE from our B&B Appartamenti Cèsa Planber Mountain View: about 10 km.
Enjoy climbing during your mountain holiday here in Canazei, in the heart of the Fassa Dolomites!