The Dolomites are the ideal natural theater to discover and deepen the world of climbing. Our facility is located in Canazei, in the center of the most beautiful mountain groups of the Dolomites: Sella group, Sass Pordoi, Sassolungo, Gran Vernel and Marmolada. On these mountains the history of mountaineering has been made and continues to be made. It is the charm of history and the beauty of the places that push many climbers to reach these points.
For more experienced hikers, Val di Fassa offers a large number of equipped paths (via ferratas), which, with the help of suitable equipment (harness, ropes, carabiners, helmet), allow you to reach even inaccessible places in absolute safety, with techniques that are close to actual climbing. To tackle this type of excursion, in addition to a fair physical preparation, you need a good knowledge of the territory and of the climatic and meteorological conditions, therefore we recommend that you contact the alpine guides who can simply provide you with useful information, or accompany you in the first approaches with the rock ( or real ascensions).
There are many via ferratas to choose from and Canazei is the perfect starting point for those who want to try their hand at the difficulties of these walls. From here you can easily reach the attacks of some of the most fascinating and demanding routes in the area such as Via Trenker on the First Tower of the Sella or the West Face on the Fourth Tower.
Here is a top 6 of the via ferratas in Val di Fassa (click on the route to find out more! With video).
DESCRIPTION This route leads directly to the top of Roda de Vael (2,806 m), in the center of a grandiose Dolomite scenery. From the Carezza Pass, take the Paolina chairlift up to the refuge of the same name. From Paolina (2,125 m) you can reach the Vajolon Pass in about 1.30 hours. From here, via an easy via ferrata, you can reach the top in about 45 minutes. For beginners, we recommend the descent along the same ascent route, while for those who want to continue and try their hand on more challenging stretches, the proposal is to descend to the Roda fork and, after passing the short and exposed wall (longer stretch) challenging of the entire route), reach the base of the Window Tower. Here is the crossroads that offers the possibility (recommended in case of bad weather) to go down the easy path to the Roda de Vael Refuge in about 40 minutes and finish the first part along a rather challenging aided canal. The alternative is to continue to the right to reach the Creste del Majarè (thus connecting the two via ferratas of Roda and Majarè).
NOTES Many cartographies recommend the reverse tour, but the reasons for making this excursion in the way described here are not to be underestimated: all the challenging stretches are thus covered uphill, therefore safety is greater; starting from the Vajolon Pass, the sun accompanies hikers throughout the entire route.
LOCATION Our mountain house is located in a strategic position to reach the starting point in a short time by car, about 30 km away.
DESCRIPTION Very popular route that was built to reach the “Gartl” basin from the A.Fronza alle Coronelle refuge, the starting point for climbing the Vajolet Towers. From the Roda de Vael refuge, take the path n. 550. The excursion starts from the Fronza Refuge, where it is recommended to wear via ferrata equipment. Immediately behind the refuge, near a large red “S”, the stepped rocks begin which form the edge of the large detrital ledge that bands the entire Davoi ridge to the west. Follow it up to the base of the lively wall that leads to Passo Santner. Continue using ladders and rungs for fireplaces, gorges and rocky steps. You reach the narrow saddle between the Schroffenegger spiers and go down steep rocks, armed with metal rope, to the frozen gully (a point where you should be careful especially at the beginning of the season due to residual snow that hides the cable). Cross and climb obliquely to the left along a sloping ledge and steep rocks. You go out for a narrow and short path and an exposed wall that you cross to the north to the southern edge of the detrital basin above the rocky labyrinth near the Passo Santner Refuge at 2,741 meters. We then undertake the descent through the “Gartl”, skirting the lake at the bottom of the basin and passing the Re Alberto Refuge (2,621 m). Take the Gola delle Torri, from which you reach the plateau of the Porte Negre (2,243 m), where the Vajolet and Paul Preuss refuges are located. Overnight at the Vajolet Refuge or at the Passo Principe Refuge (2,600 meters), the latter reachable with a further hour’s walk along the wide and comfortable path no. 584 from the Vajolet Refuge.
LOCATION Our mountain house is located in a strategic position to reach the starting point in a short time by car, about 30 km away.
DESCRIPTION Starting from the Vajolet Refuge, go up for about an hour along the wide path no. 584 at the head of the Vajolet Valley, up to the Passo Principe Refuge located on the pass of the same name. Following the signs, for debris, you reach the start of the via ferrata: you get up from left to right in a channel (ropes) and, after passing the first rocky jump, you reach the summit ridge exposed without ropes and the cross of the Catinaccio d ‘Antermoia (3.002 m), exceptional balcony on the Fassa Dolomites (1.30 hours). You go down to the north-east along the equipped route, and along the ledge, rocks, a canal and a saddle (be careful) you touch the gravels of the Forcella d’Antermoia and the Antermoia basin (2,700 meters, 1 hour). The descent can take place by the same route of ascent (for those in a hurry), or by the easy north-east side. The latter does not present many difficulties and is only equipped in some points. However, you must always pay the utmost attention as it is always very exposed. Once you reach the base of the wall (Conca di Antermoia), take the obvious track to the right and go up the gravel to the nearby Passo di Antermoia at an altitude of 2,770 meters. From here you can look out over the Vajolet valley again and you can descend, skirting the southern walls of the Catinaccio di Antermoia, to the Passo Principe Refuge, returning to Gardeccia along the way. From the Gardeccia basin you return to the valley floor by means of a special shuttle bus service.
LOCATION Our mountain house is located in a strategic position to reach in a short time by car the starting point from Pera di Fassa, about 10 km away.
DESCRIPTION From Canazei you go up to Pecol with the cable car of the same name; from Pecol you can reach Belvedere with the Col dei Rossi-Belvedere cable car. From the top station of the ski lift the path is all downhill to the Belvedere Refuge, where you cut to the right for a wide shortcut carved into the meadow. You enter again on the dirt road left just before, continuing on the plain towards the Fredarola Refuge at 2,388 meters. This refuge can be considered the starting point of the excursion. From here the route (signpost n. 601) assumes a mostly flat course, interrupted by steep, but short ramps, only in correspondence with the ridges that divide the various valleys. Before proceeding along the “Viel dal Pan” path, it is worth taking the cable car to Sass Pordoi, the terrace of the Dolomites, to enjoy a 360 ° panorama of all the main Dolomite peaks. From the Fredarola Refuge, go down to the Pordoi Pass along path no. 601 to take the cable car; on the way back you always go down by cable car to then go up again on foot, from the Pordoi Pass, towards the Fredarola Refuge on path n. 601. This section of the itinerary is called “Viel dal Pan”, because it seems to have been the preferred route for itinerant traders who moved between the Val di Fassa and the Livinallongo basin. From the Fredarola refuge you reach the Viel dal Pan refuge at an altitude of 2,432 m, continue with minimal differences in height for a long stretch but not without having a look at the magnificent panorama over the Tofane and the Livinallongo valley, which opens up at a saddle clearly evident, a few tens of meters away from the path. You come to a crossroads. Go down to the right towards the dam, at first with a long diagonal, and then with a steep and narrow serpentine to finally cross a rather exposed steep stretch that must be covered with the utmost caution. You exit on the state road in front of the Marmolada “E. Castiglioni” Refuge at 2.054 mt. From Lake Fedaia go up to the Pian dei Fiacconi Refuge (2,625 m), through the Fedaia-Pian dei Fiacconi basket trail, or, following path no. 606. Overnight at the Pian dei Fiacconi Refuge.
LOCATION Our mountain house is located in a strategic position. It starts directly from our house, from the cable car to the Belvedere (about 25 meters).
DESCRIPTION From the Pian dei Fiacconi refuge, follow the path n. 606 towards the west through the basin under the north face of the Marmolada, in a very suggestive and panoramic environment. Go around a rock spike and enter the valley between Punta Penìa and Gran Vernel. At an altitude of 2,800 meters, the path becomes a track on the glacier, for which the use of crampons provided by the guide is recommended. Climb up the valley on debris and snow, up to the foot of the Forcella Marmolada at 2,896 meters. From here begins the via ferrata which, in about 100 meters in altitude, climbs to the saddle (helmet, harness and via ferrata set are essential). The saddle acts as a watershed between the two sides of the Marmolada and allows you to enjoy a splendid panorama and see interesting tunnels dug during the First World War. From the saddle, the route forks in two: one branch climbs along the west ridge towards the summit of the Marmolada, the other lowers towards Val Contrin. In this case the via ferrata descends for about 50 meters and leads to an easy path that in 1.30 hours descends towards the Contrin Refuge at the foot of the wonderful south face of the Piccolo and Gran Vernel. Overnight at the Contrin Refuge.
LOCATION Our mountain house is located in a strategic position to reach in a short time by car the starting point from Pera di Fassa, about 12 km away.
DESCRIPTION From the Contrin Refuge, go up to the Refuge and the San Nicolò Pass of the same name (2,346 m) via path no. 608. From the San Nicolò Refuge, follow trail no. 613 along which fortifications dating back to the First World War are visible. Proceed until you reach the junction with the aided path n. 613 / bis “Lino Pederiva”. Follow trail 613 / bis, which runs along the thin grassy ridge up to the rugged buttresses of the Sasso di Rocca. The crossing takes place with the help of wire ropes that help overcome some steep points. Near the Sella Brunech (2,419 m) we rejoin the path n. 613. You then proceed along the ridge along the n. 613 until you reach Sass de Adam, from which you can enjoy a magnificent circular panorama over all the Fassa Dolomites. You reach the top station of the Buffaure cable car at 2,040 meters. By means of the plant or the path no. 643 you go down to the town of Pozza. Overnight at Hotel.
LOCATION Our mountain house is located in a strategic position to quickly reach the town of Alba di Canazei (about 2 km) by car or on foot.
In Val di Fassa it is possible to climb on the cliff, on accessible and short walls, without long descents, with more comfort and less equipment. Because this is the cliffs: large boulders or small rocky walls that emerge from the ground, which rise for twenty / thirty meters and then stop. Equipped walls that often emerge even at low altitude, easily reachable from parking lots in the village, with a few minutes’ walk.
Climbing at the crag means tackling all levels of difficulty in sport climbing, but doing it without having to plan the times of ascent for a long time. It means practicing this wonderful and constantly growing sport even within a couple of hours, then returning home and taking a shower. Are you a lover of beautiful mountains and would you like some advice on how to climb in agility in a wonderful context?
Here is a top 5 of the crags in Val di Fassa (click on the route to find out more!).
The Città dei Sassi, a splendid series of cliffs near the start of the ski lifts that from the slopes of Passo Sella, going up from Canazei, lead to Sassolungo. After parking at the foot of the cable car, take the path that branches off to the right from the parking lot. In a few minutes you will meet this series of rock formations in the Dolomites, which are actually gigantic boulders that have detached from the Sassolungo. A paradise for climbers, a place loved by local enthusiasts and tourists, also convenient from Val Gardena just beyond the Sella. There are 157 single pitch routes from grade 3 to 7c +, in a wonderful environment and with excellent opportunities to get to know other climbers. One of the largest and most beautiful natural gyms in Italy.
DISTANCE FROM OUR B & B-Apartments Cèsa Planber: about 14 km
Crag climbing often means difficulties accessible to all, given that it is in this context that it is recommended to make one’s debut. Getting to know the rock without having to prepare for mountaineering, tackling the first difficulties with the terrain within reach, without having to face the alpine environment and the dizzying heights of the long routes. A nice crag for beginners is that of Alba di Canazei. Just outside the town, going up towards the Marmolada, there is this dark rock, two beautiful blocks of volcanic rock. Not very greasy, excellent round holds, vertical slopes and difficulties between 4 and 6, to approach even the first technical pitfalls. The gym is right on the street, with ample parking nearby.
DISTANCE FROM OUR B & B-Apartments Cèsa Planber: about 1,5 km
Still in the vicinity of Canazei, once again going up the state road to the Sella. These perfectly equipped white limestone cliffs are located near the Schiavaneis and Monti Pallidi refuges. Park near the shelters and go up the paved road towards the Sella, and then take the path that starts from the barrier. Cross the stream to the cliffs, past the stream. A beautiful lawn and the white of the limestone, for four parallel sectors. The Centrale, with several pitches of very high difficulty, between 7 and 8, only for experts. The No Big Area, a small wall to the right of the other three, with technically not too difficult but overhanging routes, between 5c and 6c +. Eleven routes on the Gabriel rock, decidedly technical, with some that can be approached even by the not too experienced (second), from 6a to 7a +. Finally, the Plaque, the most varied rock, with three pitches of 5b / 5c, a couple of 6c / 6b, three beautiful routes of very demanding 7s, and even an 8a. An area truly for all tastes.
DISTANCE FROM OUR B & B-Apartments Cèsa Planber: about 8 km
Two beautiful structures one above the other, in a beautiful surrounding environment, in the middle of the gully above Moena. Both cliffs face south and it climbs all months except the winter ones, when the snow arrives. About twenty routes of medium-high difficulty, ranging from 6a / b to 7b. People come to the Ronchi crag to resume training after a break, test their skills or attempt the real leap in quality. Pretty short routes. Some very short, only seven meters long but with very athletic, almost bouldering passages. Excellent nailing in clean limestone. It can be reached by the road that from Moena goes to the San Pellegrino pass, as far as Ronchi. Park and then take the no-entry road that returns to Moena. After 300 meters on the right a path leads shortly to the gully. The cliffs are on the left side.
DISTANCE FROM OUR B & B-Apartments Cèsa Planber: about 14 km
If you are a professional looking for a great series of challenges, the crag for you, in Val di Fassa, is that of Valle San Nicolò. Go up the small valley above Pozza di Fassa. Before the valley opens into the large meadow that many love and consider one of the most beautiful places in the valley, a path starts on the left, which leads directly to the Kendo boulder. There are other clearly visible cliffs in the area all around. In total there are about thirty routes in a limestone with notches and holes. All challenging. We get news of the opening of some routes for beginners, but we don’t trust them too much. As far as we know, in fact, in Val San Nicolò it is better to avoid bringing beginners. Not one route below 7a (except the sasso Fra Martino power station), several overhanging pitches, and many 8-way routes, up to 8b. For experts and athletes of the discipline, in this splendid valley there are at least thirty really tough routes.
DISTANCE FROM OUR B & B-Apartments Cèsa Planber: about 10 km.
In addition to natural rock climbing at the crag, the NEW indoor CLIMBING STRUCTURE in Campitello di Fassa in the Ischia area near the Col Rodella cable car is available to all climbers! The “ADEL” gymnasium is dedicated to the 4 Fassa Alpine Rescue rescuers who perished under the avalanche of 26 December 2009 in Val Lasties (Alessandro Dantone, Diego Perathoner, Erwin Riz and Luca Prinoth). The brand new and innovative structure consists of an external part for climbing with a rope, divided into 2 sectors: the first characterized by a height of 17 m and over 600 square meters that can be climbed; while the second, approved for speed races, is 15 m high with a climbing area of 150 square meters. The internal part, on the other hand, hosts a large bouldering area with a climbing area of 260 square meters.
DISTANCE FROM OUR B&B Cèsa Planber Apartments: about 2 km from our structure, easily reachable by car in less than 2 minutes, by bus, or on foot with a pleasant walk along the Avisio river in the pedestrian area in about 15 minutes.
InfoCorner in Cèsa Planber: free tourist material delivered upon arrival and available for consultation during your stay, daily updates on weather conditions.
And if you are a group of friends, our structure offers special conditions for large groups!
Have fun climbing during your mountain holiday here in Canazei, in the heart of the Fassa Dolomites!
Fam. Planchensteiner
Strèda de Ciampac 16
38032 Canazei TN
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